Honey Cafe: Gourmet brunch in downtown Glen Ellyn

Izidora Angel | Contributing Writer
Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Though an old Chinese proverb suggests eating breakfast by yourself, lunch with a friend and giving your dinner to your enemy, it does not mention the fourth very crucial meal – brunch. Which can only mean Chinese philosophers wanted us to eat brunch with a whole lot of friends. Because let’s face it, is there really anything better than getting up on a Sunday morning around 11, hangover advisable, grabbing the paper and heading over to enjoy a strong coffee and some eggs benedict? No, not really.

While trendy places pop up all over the city, all of the time, with their mandatory lines and sorority girls clad in ‘Juicy’ sweat pants, Honey Cafe in downtown Glen Ellyn not only brings this happening aspect to the ’burbs, thereby successfully eradicating that 30 mile drive, but it also refreshingly remains void of city impertinence.

The scene
The self-described “comfort food cafe” is situated on the corner of Pennsylvania and Main, bathed in bright greens and blues and set within a long, asymmetrical shape embraced by high white decorative ceilings, open ducts and wooden floors. Large framed photographs in lieu of paintings decorate the walls, no doubt showing owner Elizabeth Janus’ love for art (she owned a gallery just a stone’s throw from the cafe for about a decade).

The large storefront windows make that hypnotizing activity known as people watching all the more pleasurable, while you rest your elbows on delightfully charming copper countertops and smell the fresh orchids placed atop in tiny little vases. The front room also features a small deli/bakery, which has lots of goodies to go, including organic meatloaf, mac and cheese and roasted squash, in addition to fresh cookies like oatmeal and raisin. On this visit, the back room facing Pennsylvania St. wasn’t open, but it will allow for double the patronage once it is.

The food
Breakfast. Lunch. Brunch. (Soon dinner, too.) This is the best of all possible worlds. Chef Alex Gomez, formerly of city brunch-joint Orange fame, is behind the gourmet, often organic, ingredients menu, and once you glance at the intricate menu you’ll find it hard not to want to order everything. Among the items likely to strike your brunch fancy: the pancake party (with almond vanilla mousse, pecans walnuts, ground hazelnuts and milk chocolate), filet mignon eggs benedict or caprese benedict, eggs on a motorcycle, triple chocolate French toast kebabs and every-bit-as-fun sodas and desserts. Whatever you do, do not overlook the coffee. It’s organic fair-trade, bought from an independent Chicago roaster and is worth every single penny.

How can one possibly pass up a steak for breakfast? Cue in the filet mignon benedict as well as the eggs on a motorcycle, which, although lacking steak, aroused deep curious hunger. We also thought it criminal not to order the buttermilk pancakes and a side of applewood smoked bacon. One must be patient, however, for as it says on the menu: items will take some time to make. So depending on the nature of the dish, be prepared to wait up to 30 minutes. Once it arrives, there will be love.

A plate is to a meal as a frame is to a painting, and these plate presentations were amazing works of art. The filet was sliced and placed on top of a single, thick slice of freshly baked bread, topped with hollandaise and poached eggs and drizzled with balsamic reduction. Absolutely gorgeous. And not heavy at all. I did’nt think I could finish it, but I did and felt great afterwards. The eggs on a motorcycle were two eggs actually baked into a slice of artisanal bread and laid into a “pool” of roasted garlic and rosemary cream, in addition to brandishing fresh rosemary and a side of house potatoes. Once you cut into the bread, yolky goodness abounds, verging on sin. Forkfulls of buttermilk pancakes with honey butter (amazing) replaced conversation, and to a large extent, wit.

Honey Cafe Address: 499 Main St. Town: Glen Ellyn Phone: (630) 469-0000 Web: honeycafe.net Hours: Mon-Sun: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Cuisine: Contemporary American, organic Meals served: Breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch, (dinner coming soon) Credit cards: All major Carryout: Yes Children’s menu: Yes Entertainment: No Outdoor Seating: No Reservations: Yes Dress: Casual Parking: On the street Average entree price: $8-15

The experience
This is a family-friendly restaurant, soon to have dinner service, but don’t expect screaming children roaming the hardwood floors. Instead, you’ll be treated to amicable service, fresh food, a diverse clientele and maybe a little jazz spilling over from the back in your honor.

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